Pruning A Growing Fruit Bearing Plant
Pruning is the systematic cutting of certain parts of a fruit plant. It is done annually, usually during summer (summer pruning) and winter (dormant pruning). When done properly and regularly, pruning a growing fruit bearing plant achieves certain plant shape and form that sustain fruit production. Pruning does this in three ways. First, it creates a canopy of leaves that allows for proper sunlight penetration and air circulation. Second, it leaves well-developed branches that could support fruit load. And third, it removes damaged, diseased, and dead branches, allowing for a quick plant repair. The result is a plant that produces good fruits and has longer life span.
How to prune fruit plants
Pruning is a process that requires skill and attention. To help you, here is a list of what-to-do’s.
1. Cut off branches that look unhealthy. Examples are damaged, diseased, or broken branches. Branches that do not grow to the appropriate angle or direction and that overlap one another should also be removed. This is because crossing and overlapping branches tend to shed off the bark, which causes insect infection.
2. Research about your plant and find out what type of pruning method is appropriate to apply. For example, the Central Leader method is best done on plants or trees with one central trunk. The plant can be shaped into a pyramid, meaning the top branches are shorter than the lower branches, but have adequate spaces from one another. Central Leader method allows for maximum light penetration and can be done on apple, plum, and peach. Another method is called Open Center. With this method, the central trunk is removed, allowing three to five major branches to be the scaffolds. In each pruning, selection of major scaffolds is necessary. Open Center also allows for light exposure and can be done on peach and plum as well. You can, of course, choose to use any method for as long as it can guarantee the shape and form that yield proper plant development and fruit production.
3. Learn the different pruning cuts. One is the bench cut. Ideal to open the center of the plant, bench cut is done to remove shoots that grow outwardly. Another one is the heading cut, which removes the base of the shoot and allows the lower bud below the cut to grow. On the other hand, the cut that is used to chop the entire shoot is called the thinning cut. Whatever cut is most appropriate to use, it is important to angle the cut in such a way that can promote quick healing and can prevent insects and pests to linger on the cut surface.
4. Use sharp and appropriate pruning tools such as pruning shears and saw. The problem with bad tools is that they do not make properly angled and clean cuts, thereby affecting the re-growth of the bud. The general rule is to sharpen the pruning tools at least two times in a year.
5. Examine the plant shape and form as you prune. Do not make impulsive cuts because if you do, not only will you diminish the aesthetic appeal of the plant, you will also injure its potential growth. When pruning a growing fruit bearing plant, step back once in a while and see if you need to make further cuts or stop at once.
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